dinsdag 15 oktober 2013

Camera Try Out: Pocket Kodak No. 1 series II (1922-1931)

Camera try out: Pocket Kodak No. 1 series II

Another vintage camera to add to my collection. 
120 mm folding camera from Kodak. 
Produced from 1922 to 1931.
Lens: Kodak Anastigmat F-6.3 112 mm
Shutter: Kodex No.1 settings T, B, 1/25 1/50
Negative size : 6x9 cm






I did checked the bellow for any light leaks. Unfortunately it was awfully porous and worn out. 
First of all, a repair was necessary if I wanted to make any photo's with this camera. 
I gave the bellow some layers of Plasti-Dip. (some sort of liquid rubber)

First results,  (contact prints) -Ilford HP5+ 400 

Probably the light haze right in the picture was caused by the red window for framecounting.
And still some light leaks to repair.












donderdag 26 september 2013

C-41 Cross Process / Agfa CT Precisa 100

C-41 Cross Process / Agfa CT Precisa 100

My first-dia film cross processed with C-41 method
Pentax MX - Agfa CT precisa 100
Tetenal Colortec C-41, 30°C 8 min.

















First time: C41-Processing

C41-Process

New processing method for in my darkroom! 

I ordered a few boxes of Tetenal Colortec C-41 Rapid Negative kits for doing my own color film, dia-film (cross-processing) and Chromogen- film, like Ilford XP.


Because there are so many advices,  different methods, youtube videos etc. etc.  to be found on the internet. I was forced to compose my "own" working method for C41. Without doubt, my working method needs some fine tuning. 

The Tetenal colortec C-41 box contains six flasks with chemicals.
Mixing those chemicals will make the 3 working solutions needed for the C-41 processing.
Colour developer / Bleach fix / Stabiliser

Mixing

For 1000 ml working solution (12-16 films)
  1. Colour developer: 700 ml water / 100 ml part 1 / 100 ml part 2 / 100 ml part 3
  2. Bleach Fix: 600 ml water / 200 ml part 1 / 200 ml part 2
  3. Stabiliser: 900 ml water / 100 ml (Stab).

The standard development is done at 38 °C / 100 °F for 3.15 minutes.
I have chosen for the alternative development at 30°C/86°F for 8 minutes  to create a smaller margin of error.

First warm up the working solutions to 30 °C/ 86 °F.
I purchased a aquarium heater that can heat up my warming bath, and keeps it at a steady 30°C.
Also, I did add 2 bottles filled with water for the pre-heat of the developer drum, and for the short rinse after the CD (colour developer)



Developing at 30°C

  1. Preheat the developer drum with water at 30°C for 2 minutes
  2. Add  the colour developer for 8 minutes. Rotate the first 20 seconds, tumble the can 2 times every 30 sec.
  3. A short rinse for 1 minute, to avoid pollution of the Blix.
  4. Bleach fix for 6 minutes
  5. Rinse for 6 minutes - with 30 °C - 40°C water
  6. Stabiliser for 1.5 minutes 
  7. Final rinse and add a few drops wetting agent (I'm using Amaloco H10)  
  8. Dry (dustproof area)

Note: After developing film, the working solution will get exhausted.
Extent the developing time after developing film with ISO 200 or higher with 20 seconds, less than ISO 200, extend the developing time with 15 seconds.